After spending a couple of nights acclimatising to Sri Lanka's tropical climate in Negombo, we decided to hop aboard a north bound train heading for the ancient city of Anuradhapura. This city is historically very significant as it was the capital of Sri Lanka for well over a thousand years, until it was overthrown by Southern Indians in 993. The ancient Buddhist city was supposedly "rediscovered" by British rulers in the nineteenth century, and since then the ancient ruins of temples, Dagobas and bathing pools have slowly resurfaced.
The present day city is incredibly charming and remains largely untouched by western tourism, perhaps due to its distance from the south. It is a very small city surrounded by palm fringed paddy fields and is the perfect place to witness Sri Lanka's religious traditions and extensive history.
Visiting The Ancient Ruins
First things first, Sri Lanka's tourist attractions are all pretty expensive compared to other Asian countries, meaning they can be slightly off putting to budget travellers. We found that we had to really pick and choose where we wanted to go, as entry for many ancient sites will cost you around $30/35. To enter the Ancient ruins "complex" in Anuradhapura, it costs $30 which has to be paid in cash. There is no cash point near the ancient complex, only in the town centre!
The ruins complex is pretty large and the only way you can get around is via bike or rickshaw. I would advise you to get a bike because the roads between the sites are virtually empty and flat and the surroundings are beautiful! You really would not get the same experience if you were being driven around in a rickshaw.
Throughout the ruins complex there are little ticket booths and men dressed in security outfits where you have to buy or present your ticket every time you go past. Even though it may seem a bit dodgy, this is the way it is done and you have to oblige. You may also get stopped at the Dagobas and other ancient sites to show your tickets, but it is mainly on the roads where they will stop you. We read various things online about people not paying for tickets and getting by. While this is possible with some sites like the Bodhi Tree, it is much easier to pay the price and have a hassle free day out than try to wiggle your way out of paying!
Cycling through the beautiful jungle and stumbling upon ruin after ruin was one of the highlights of my trip to Sri Lanka, and so I whole heartedly recommend you take a visit to this wonderful city if you get the chance! It is easy to arrive via train from Colombo and it is also well connected to other cities such as Kandy/Dambulla by bus (both AC and non AC). I stayed in a lovely guesthouse a short drive out of the city centre. It was set amongst paddy fields with a view of a Dagoba in the distance, as well as an abandoned railway line which made for some picturesque albeit a little cliche photos. The homestay had bikes you could hire and food was served in the evening meaning we did not have to venture into town which was pretty nice after a long day of cycling.
Thank you so much for reading, comment below if you have any questions about visiting Anuradhapura!
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Much love,
Lizzie xx
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